Microdermabrasion: Types, Preparation, Process, Benefits, Side Effects, and Expectation

Microdermabrasion enhances skin texture and clarity through a gentle exfoliation process, using a specialized device to remove dead skin cells. This treatment is effective in addressing concerns such as fine lines, acne scars, and uneven pigmentation, leaving the skin smoother and more radiant.

The types of microdermabrasion include crystal microdermabrasion, which uses tiny crystals to exfoliate, and diamond-tip microdermabrasion, which uses a diamond-tipped wand for precise exfoliation. Both types aim to rejuvenate the skin’s surface.

The preparation for microdermabrasion involves avoiding sun exposure, retinoids, and exfoliants several days before treatment. A professional consultation is also recommended to evaluate skin type and readiness for the procedure.

The process of microdermabrasion involves a handheld device that exfoliates the skin by either spraying fine crystals or using a diamond tip. The treatment takes around 30-60 minutes and is painless, with no downtime required.

The benefits of microdermabrasion include improved skin tone, reduced appearance of fine lines, diminished acne scars, and smaller pores. Over time, it also stimulates collagen production, leading to firmer, more youthful skin. A study by  Dr. Kalyani Marathe et. al. 2017, titled “Microdermabrasion for the Treatment of Acne Scars”, published in The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, highlights that microdermabrasion significantly reduces the appearance of mild acne scars, with patients often seeing noticeable improvements after multiple sessions.

The side effects of microdermabrasion are mild and temporary, including redness, slight swelling, and sensitivity. Dr. Zoe Diana Draelos, in her book “Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures”  published in 2015, mentions that microdermabrasion results in mild, temporary redness and skin sensitivity, which resolves within a few hours to a day after treatment.

Expectations after microdermabrasion include smoother, more radiant skin. Mild redness does occur but typically fades quickly. Visible improvements in skin texture and tone is seen after multiple sessions, with little to no downtime required.

What is Microdermabrasion?

Microdermabrasion is a cosmetic procedure that involves the use of a specialized device to exfoliate the skin, removing the outermost layer of dead skin cells. This process improves skin texture, reduces the appearance of fine lines, acne scars, and hyperpigmentation, and promotes a brighter, more even complexion. A dermatologist uses a diamond-tipped wand or sprays fine particles of aluminum oxide or sodium bicarbonate to gently remove dead skin cells. This exfoliation process stimulates skin renewal, promoting smoother, healthier skin. Microdermabrasion also is combined with other cosmetic procedures, such as chemical peels, for enhanced results​.

According to Dr. Babak Moein, approximately 522,683 microdermabrasion treatments were performed in the US in 2020, despite the COVID-19 pandemic. The industry is expanding at an annual growth rate of 8.58%.

MDA was first introduced in 1985 by Marini and Lo Brutto as a less aggressive alternative to chemical peels and dermabrasion. The MDA procedure is performed in the outpatient setting (medical office, medical spa) by a trained clinician, aesthetician, medical assistant, or nurse without the use of anesthesia according to Shah, M. et. al. 2023 published by the National Library of Medicine. 

What Are the Types of Microdermabrasion?

The types of microdermabrasion are crystal microdermabrasion, diamond microdermabrasion, and hydro microdermabrasion. Each offers unique methods for exfoliating the skin, improving texture, and promoting skin rejuvenation.

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) first approved microdermabrasion devices in 1996, marking a significant milestone for this cosmetic procedure in the United States. Since that initial approval, the microdermabrasion industry has experienced substantial growth and innovation. The main types of microdermabrasion are:

  • Crystal Microdermabrasion: Uses fine particles of aluminum oxide or sodium bicarbonate to exfoliate the outer layer of dead skin cells. It’s commonly used to treat sun damage, fine lines, and light scarring by promoting collagen production and boosting blood flow to the skin.
  • Diamond Microdermabrasion: A diamond-tipped wand exfoliates the skin while a vacuum removes dead skin cells. This type is often used for more sensitive areas and is preferred for its precision, especially in addressing uneven skin tone and enlarged pores.
  • Hydro Microdermabrasion: Combines exfoliation with water and oxygen to gently remove dead skin cells while hydrating the skin. It’s ideal for those with sensitive or dry skin, providing a milder approach to exfoliation while improving skin hydration and texture.

How to Prepare for a Microdermabrasion

To prepare for a microdermabrasion, it’s important to start with a consultation with a dermatologist to discuss your skin type, expected results, and any potential side effects According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) here’s how to prepare:

  • Avoid Sun Exposure: Refrain from sun exposure for at least one week prior to prevent skin irritation and sensitivity during the procedure.
  • Discontinue Retin-A and Glycolic Acid: Stop using these products at least three days before treatment, as they will make your skin more sensitive to exfoliation.
  • Avoid Waxing and Tanning Creams: For one week before treatment, avoid waxing or using tanning creams to reduce skin irritation and uneven exfoliation.
  • Pause Certain Medications: Consult with your doctor to stop any medications that cause skin sensitivity or affect healing, such as blood thinners or acne medications.

Who is a Good Candidate for Microdermabrasion?

A good candidate for microdermabrasion has mild to moderate skin concerns that will benefit from exfoliation. It is ideal for individuals looking to improve skin texture, tone, and minor imperfections. People with more severe skin conditions, such as deep scars or active infections, may not be suitable candidates.

A good candidate for microdermabrasion is:

  • People who have large pores: Helps minimize the appearance of enlarged pores by unclogging and exfoliating the skin.
  • Individuals with uneven skin texture: Smooths out rough patches for a more consistent skin surface.
  • Patients dealing with hyperpigmentation: Lightens dark spots and creates a more balanced skin tone.
  • Individuals who have facial scars: Softens minor scars from injuries or surgeries, improving skin texture.
  • People with minor injury marks: Resurfaces the top layer of skin to enhance its appearance.
  • Someone with acne or acne scars: Reduces the appearance of acne and shallow scars, resulting in smoother skin.

Who is Not a Good Candidate for Microdermabrasion?

A bad candidate for microdermabrasion includes individuals with certain skin conditions or taking specific medications that would face complications from the procedure. Those with sensitive or damaged skin experience irritation or worsened symptoms.

A candidate is not good for microdermabrasion if:

  • Taking acne medication: People using medications like isotretinoin may experience excessive skin irritation.
  • Have active cold sore: The treatment spreads the infection and causes further outbreaks.
  • Experience frequent skin rashes: Conditions like dermatitis may flare up with microdermabrasion.
  • Have eczema: This condition is aggravated by skin exfoliation.
  • Suffer from Psoriasis: The procedure may cause a flare-up of this chronic skin condition.

How Does Microdermabrasion Work?

Microdermabrasion works by using a device to exfoliate the outer layer of the skin, removing dead skin cells and promoting new cell growth. A vacuum is used to remove the exfoliated cells, leaving the skin smoother and more refreshed.

According to a theoretical analysis by Lee AR, Tojo K. et. al. 1998 titled “Characterization of Skin Permeation of Vitamin C” published by The Chemical and Pharmaceutical Bulletin, microdermabrasion has been shown to improve transdermal drug delivery by removing the stratum corneum. Methods to increase transdermal delivery often target the stratum corneum layer of the epidermis, as the stratum corneum is the principal barrier that limits the percutaneous diffusion of molecules.

No anesthesia or numbing is necessary, as the procedure is painless. The treatment lasts between 30-60 minutes and requires no downtime, allowing you to resume normal activities immediately after.

The process of a microdermabrasion includes:

  1. Consultation: A healthcare professional, typically a dermatologist or licensed aesthetician, evaluates your skin.
  2. Preparation: You recline in a comfortable chair, and the skin is cleansed to remove makeup and impurities.
  3. Exfoliation: The professional uses either a diamond-tipped wand or crystal microdermabrasion machine to gently exfoliate the outer layer of skin. A vacuum removes dead skin cells.
  4. No Anesthesia or Numbing: The procedure is painless and requires no numbing agents or anesthesia.
  5. Post-Treatment Care: Afterward, a moisturizer and sunscreen are applied to protect the freshly exfoliated skin.

What Are the Benefits of Microdermabrasion?

The main benefits of microdermabrasion are improving skin texture, reducing signs of aging, and treating acne scars. A study by Dr. Michael Gold published in Dermatologic Surgery (2018) found that 95% of patients who underwent microdermabrasion treatments experienced smoother skin texture and improved clarity, making it a widely favored option for skin rejuvenation.

A key advantage of microdermabrasion is its versatility, as it is suitable for most skin types and tones. According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, microdermabrasion helps to thicken your collagen, which results in a younger looking complexion. Collagen is a protein in your skin which is abundant when you’re a child and makes skin appear taut and smooth. 

The most common benefits of microdermabrasion are:

  • Improved complexion: Exfoliation helps remove dead skin cells, giving the skin a brighter and smoother appearance.
  • Reduced signs of aging: Fine lines, wrinkles, and sun damage is diminished over time with regular treatments.
  • Treating acne scars: Helps to fade mild acne scars and other minor skin imperfections.
  • Clearing clogged pores: Unclogs pores, reducing blackheads and preventing breakouts.

What Are the Side Effects of Microdermabrasion?

The side effects of microdermabrasion include redness, swelling, and tenderness immediately after treatment. These effects usually subside within a few hours to a day.

The most common side effects of microdermabrasion are:

  • Redness: Temporary redness of the skin, similar to a mild sunburn.
  • Swelling: Slight swelling occurs after the procedure.
  • Burning or Stinging: Some patients may experience a mild stinging sensation during or after the treatment.
  • Tenderness: The treated skin may feel sensitive to touch.
  • Bruising: Rare, but does occur if suction is used too aggressively.

These side effects typically resolve quickly with proper aftercare.

What to Expect After the Microdermabrasion?

You can expect the skin to be red, swollen, or sensitive for up to 24 hours after microdermabrasion. Recovery is quick, and normal activities are able to be resumed immediately. You will notice smoother, brighter skin, and a more even texture. Mild peeling occurs as the skin heals, and it’s crucial to use sunscreen to protect the fresh skin layer. Results are often visible after the first session, though multiple treatments may enhance long-term improvement.

How Long Do Microdermabrasion Results Last?

Microdermabrasion results last between one to two months, depending on factors such as skin type, post-treatment care, and lifestyle. Sun exposure and a poor skincare routine does shorten the duration of results, while maintaining a consistent skincare regimen to extend them. Regular sessions help maintain the rejuvenated skin effect.

How Often Should You Get a Microdermabrasion?

You should get microdermabrasion treatments every 4 to 6 weeks for ongoing results. To address more severe skin concerns, 6 to 10 sessions are often required to achieve desired improvements. Ongoing treatments help maintain smooth, clear, and youthful-looking skin.

What is the Difference Between Microdermabrasion and Chemical Peel?

The main difference between microdermabrasion and a chemical peel is the method of exfoliation. Microdermabrasion uses a mechanical process with a diamond-tipped wand or crystals to physically exfoliate the skin, removing dead cells. In contrast, a chemical peel uses a solution of acids to chemically dissolve the outer layers of skin. While microdermabrasion is gentler and suitable for most skin types, chemical peels target deeper skin issues like pigmentation and wrinkles, depending on their strength.

Can Microdermabrasion and Chemical Peel Be Done at the Same Time?

Yes, microdermabrasion and a chemical peel are often done together for enhanced results. Microdermabrasion preps the skin by removing dead cells, allowing the chemical peel to penetrate more effectively. Combining these treatments result in improved skin texture, reduced fine lines, and enhanced clarity. This combination accelerates skin renewal and provides deeper exfoliation while improving overall skin health. However, the treatments should be done by a professional to avoid over-exfoliation.

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